Most people think of the Costa Brava for its Mediterranean beaches and classic holiday resorts — and rightly so, as the coastline is spectacular — but this northeastern region of Catalonia offers more than just sea and sand. Visitors can expect a much-storied history, diverse terrain and landscapes, inspiring architecture and an exceptional food and wine scene.
The region’s wine production is centred around the protected ‘designation of origin’ (DO) Empordà area, which stretches from near the Pyrenees mountains in the north to the glistening Mediterranean Sea in the south, traversing the Costa Brava. The area’s DO status means that wine produced in this region is regulated for quality and authenticity, making a viticultural journey one of the best ways to experience the area.
Start at the beginning in Empúries
While the DO Empordà wine region may only have gained its protected status in 2006, wine production here likely dates back to the ancient Greek and Roman times, both of whom settled in the area they called Empòrion and Emporiae respectively. These days, the settlement and historical ruins of the city are called Empúries and are the destination from which the wider region and the wine designation take their names. Any wine-focused exploration of the region should begin at this ancient site, to understand the scale and importance of this part of the Iberian Peninsula. The Archaeology Museum of Catalonia Empuries is the best place to start, showcasing objects that have been unearthed over the years. Only about half of the ruins have been excavated so far, so discoveries are continually being added.
Wine and dine in Girona
No trip to the Costa Brava would be complete without one final stop in the colourful city of Girona. Sat at the meeting point of four rivers, the city has been home to settlements since at least the Roman times, a history that endures in the remains of the old city walls. Girona’s centre is an architectural and cultural blend that features Islamic, Jewish, and Roman influences, best explored by getting lost in the winding streets. Cool off by dipping into one of the city’s chic wine bars, many of which specialise in natural wines. For the ultimate experience, try to snag a table on the terrace at the trendy La Tabarra. Its wine list has a great selection of red, white and rosé wines from DO Empordà — all perfect to pair with its small plates such as batter-fried prawn brioche or Asian-style steak tartare.
