Granada’s hill caves, labyrinthine alleyways and the medieval Moorish quarter combine to make it an enigmatic city break destination. This provincial capital in southern Spain offers literary lunches, mirador sunsets and Islamic architecture, with the spirit of flamenco infusing every facet of its artistic life.
8am: Breakfast on churros
Nobody quite knows the origin of churros — the indulgent breakfast dish of deep-fried dough tubes, dusted in sugar or dipped in hot chocolate — but one theory is that they came to southern Spain with the Moors. Certainly Granada has plenty of fine spots to try this long-standing favourite. Start your day at one of the best, Cafeteria Alhambra, choosing to sit in the atmospheric wood-panelled interior or on the terrace overlooking Plaza de Bib-Rambla, the heart of Granadino cafe culture.
10am: Marvel at the Alhambra
No trip to Granada is complete without a visit to the Alhambra, one of the world’s greatest buildings. An impossibly atmospheric mash-up of European and Islamic architectural styles, the palace was expanded and added to between the 13th and 17th centuries by successive Christian and Moorish rulers, who bestowed it with stately pleasure gardens, tinkling fountains, latticed archways and ornate ceilings. Booking a ticketed slot online far in advance is essential.
2pm: A literary lunch
Although the poet Federico García Lorca died almost a century ago, it’s possible to join him for lunch. The atmospheric Realejo restaurant Chikito was once a cafe where Lorca would meet with his fellow intellectuals. With its dark-wood beams and tiled wall decorations, it looks much the same as in Lorca’s day — and now there’s a full-size statue of him which sits at one of the tables. The menu includes traditional local delicacies like tortilla del Sacromonte — an omelette with lambs’ brains and testicles.
4pm: Moorish relaxation
Head inside for some Moorish-style pampering at the Hammam al-Andalus, a striking modern bathhouse built in the traditional Arabian style. The treatment menu includes water therapies and essential-oil massages — perfect for rejuvenating those tired muscles after a day walking Granada’s hills. Suitably refreshed, walk five minutes to Calle Calderería Nueva for a mint tea in one of the street’s beautiful Moroccan teahouses.
